Seeing how much Molly in particular was enjoying snorkelling, time over the water in the Gili Islands seemed to make sense as a trip from Bali. Getting there and back however was quite an ordeal: after our somewhat hairy boat rides in Cambodia and reading horror stories on trip advisor I was getting more than a little nervous. We booked a return boat from Padang Bai, a bus ride up the coast from Sanur to reduce the sailing time. The crossing was quite rocky but not too bad. Coming back the issue was finding which boat we were booked on and getting a seat, and then the boat headed in the wrong direction across to Lombok mainland to have its passengers counted by the authorities! We had to remind ourselves time and time again everything ran on island time and in the island way…

Arriving at Gili T felt like stepping back in time, there are no motorised vehicles, everyone travels by foot, pedal bike or horse and cart (called a cidomo). We found out we had booked to stay in an Irish pub slightly by mistake – I guess the name ‘Tir Na Nog’ should have given it away – but it was fantastic.

The bar was known as the spot on the island’s weekly pub crawl with live music most nights, but they put us in a room furthest from the bar, so the noise didn’t bother us. We very much enjoyed the lovely pool and our exterior bathroom and shower in the undergrowth. Breakfasts and staff were brilliant too.

Gili T is short for Gili Trawangan, Gili means ‘small island’ in sasak (the language spoken in Lombok) and terowongan is tunnels in Indonesian, referring to the cave tunnel built during Japanese occupation during World War II. Bunkers are still visible on the island. In the 1980s and 1990s Gili T became known as a party island, its neighbours, close enough to see, Gili Meno and Gili Air are smaller and quieter.

Gili T was the perfect size for us – a great run round it and with plenty of restaurants to visit and things to do. I enjoyed a morning Vinyassa Flow yoga class at Sunset Beach and me and the girls had a sunset horse ride thanks to Stud stables. A major highlight of our world tour for MoJo.

Our best meals were at Casa Vintage and Scallywags where there was a great all-you-can-eat salad bar: in Molly’s books as good as a buffet! We also had a great meal one evening at the night market, where you could pick which combination of satays and side dishes you wanted.

The highlight of our time there was definitely the snorkelling (well the horse riding might have been for MoJo). Visibly was outstanding – best really just off the beach, seeing countless fish, turtles, eels and rays. We also took a boat trip out round the other islands to some famous spots to snorkel, which were also interesting with sculptures placed on the ocean floor and a wreck. The lunch on Gili Air was mediocre and Joanna was quite scared of the waves on the way back, but it was worth it.

To experience a true island, you have to accept rocky boat rides, relaxed service and other people also hoping to find their own piece of paradise – but on Gili T you could make it your own, there were enough quiet beaches to fully switch off. We really loved our four days there.